Despite inflation and Gaza, Egyptians rekindle Ramadan magic

In the heart of Cairo, as the last rays of sun cover the congested street that leads to Sayedat Zeinab Mosque, young men begin gathering chairs and tables outside the mosque and organise them in line for Ramadan. 

At the same time, a group of volunteers enter the scene with big casserole dishes and begin to serve the long queue of people who have begun gathering, waiting to break their fast for iftar. 

Tables of Mercy or Ma'edat Al Rahman can be seen in most neighbourhoods in the Muslim world. However, in Egypt, they have special importance and are found almost everywhere you go.

Whilst they are typically meant for low-income families, anyone coming during magrib is encouraged to join, no matter their status. However, this year, the tables are fuller than usual. 

"Ramadan holds special cultural significance for Egyptians. You can see it in our streets, through our alleyways, in the windows of homes, or on TV"

The shadow of Egypt's economic crisis over Ramadan

Egyptians are still coming to terms with one of their country's worst economic crises. In August 2023, annual inflation hit a record 39.7 percent. On March 6, one week before the beginning of Ramadan, Egypt secured a deal with the International Monetary Fund leading it to devalue its currency from 30EGP to almost 50EGP to the dollar, a value loss of almost 70 percent. 

For many, the announcement came as a bitter reminder of the country's last IMF deal in 2016, where a similar policy of devaluation reduced real wages by 40 percent over the following three years and pushed the poverty rate up to over 30 percent of the population.

"The number of people coming to our tables has increased this year, life is getting harder," Mohamed, one of the volunteers, tells The New Arab. "There's also different types of people coming. Before, people used to feel embarrassed. Now more people from the middle classes are also coming."

The Egyptian charity Mersal Foundation explained to The New Arab that inflation has affected social well-being. "Over the past few months, we've had dozens of visitors asking about social assistance, with the numbers increasing significantly before Ramadan."

Fortunately charity is in abundance during Ramadan, 'the month of good deeds'. Muslims are asked to donate to charity whilst they are fasting or to volunteer at charitable initiatives. Mohamed and his friends, street owners from the Sayedat Zainab neighbourhood, each leave their stands unattended during Ramadan to help feed the hundreds of people who sit at the tables every evening. 

Keep Palestine in your prayers

Beyond Egypt's economic woes, Ramadan in Egypt has been overshadowed by Israel's war on Gaza. "The atmosphere this year isn't the same as previous ones. Most of us are sad," Ahmed, a student at Al-Azhar University told The New Arab. 

As a sign of solidarity, many streets across Egypt are decorated with Palestinian flags. One such neighbourhood is Al Haram, where Ghassan, a Palestinian from Gaza, now lives. Ghassan and his family crossed from Gaza into Egypt a few days before the Israeli offensive started to receive medical treatment. Since then, they've been stuck in the country with no way to stay financially afloat. 

"This Ramadan feels strange for us," Ghassan says with a lifeless gaze. "It's the first time that our family eats alone. We usually go to my older brother's house and bring something to eat and share with our five other brothers and their families." 

While walking through the streets of Cairo to eat iftar with his family, Ghassan thinks about how his loved ones in Gaza. "There is no food, and when there is, people are afraid of being bombed whilst breaking their fast." 

For Ghassan, signs of affection like the Ramadan decorations in Palestine’s honour make him feel more at ease. “Governments aside, there is love present between the peoples, it is a fraternal connection.”

Many Egyptians are using their Ramadan zakat or charitable deeds to campaigns directed towards sending resources into Gaza. “Mersal sent more than 100 trucks with a variety of medicines, medical supplies, food, blankets, clothes, and water,” says the foundation’s spokesperson. “We provide these medicines and supplies after communicating with the doctors in the hospitals there and with the Palestinian Red Crescent.”

Why Ramadan in Egypt is special

Despite the economic crisis, Egyptians remain grateful for another Ramadan in the country where it is said to be "something different."

"This month is the most special of the year," says Razan, an Egyptian living in Cairo. "The month holds spiritual significance for Muslims. It's a month to get closer to God, to master the Quran, and to go to the mosque. But Ramadan holds special cultural significance for Egyptians. You can see it in our streets, through our alleyways, in the windows of homes, or on TV."

Ramadan is felt in every corner of Egypt due to the country's influence in fostering Ramadan cultural traditions which later spread throughout the Muslim world. 

The traditional Ramadan fanoos or lanterns became popular after they had been used by Egyptians over a thousand years ago to light the way for the arrival of Fatimid caliph Al Mu’izz li-Din Allah Al Fatimy on the fifth night of Ramadan. Ever since, Cairo’s streets have been full of giant lanterns on the days prior and during the holy month, and they have become an icon for the entire Muslim community.

Likewise, other iconic Ramadan symbols such as the mesaharaty – the person that wakes people up with drums and music during the night for them to have their last tastes of food before fasting – or the cannon fire marking the end of the fast, were first recorded in Egypt.

As a result, Ramadan in Egypt keeps its magic year after year. A month that feels like a breeze of air to most Egyptians who struggle to visualize a better future; a short period of calm that they use to pray to God to ease the way for whatever comes ahead. 

Bianca Carrera is a freelance writer and analyst specialising in Middle Eastern and North African politics and society at Sciences Po Paris. She has written for Al Jazeera, The New Arab, Al-Quds Al-Araby, EU Observer and others. She is based between Spain, Morocco and Egypt

Follow her on Twitter: @biancacarrera25