Yemenis embrace Al-Mukalla coastal gem for relief and tourism opportunities during Al-Baldah season

As dawn breaks over Yemen’s southern city of Al-Mukalla, an unusual traffic jam begins to form. Hundreds of cars and groups of pedestrians make their way towards the city’s sandy coastline to enjoy what is locally known as Al-Baldah. Along Al-Sateen Street, traffic comes to a standstill as large crowds gather along the shore.

From mid-July to early August, a rare annual cold snap sweeps through the coastal areas of Al-Mukalla and neighbouring parts of Hadhramaut Province on the Arabian Sea.

This natural event cools the seawater and brings refreshingly low temperatures to a city otherwise known for its sweltering heat and humidity.

On the beach, some people plunge into the cold, choppy waves, while others bury themselves in the sand, either for fun or for its supposed health benefits.

“The weather is great, cool, and I feel healthy and energetic,” said Ahmed Mohammed, a young beachgoer, as he buried his legs in the sand before quickly jumping into the cold water to wash it off.

He works as a painter with his father in Al-Mukalla and spends two hours each morning at the sea during the season to recharge before heading to work.

“I feel refreshed after swimming in the sea,” he added. 

Visitors from all over the country

Al-Mukalla has remained largely untouched by Yemen’s decade-long conflict, aside from a one-year occupation by Al-Qaeda militants. However, like much of the country, it has not been spared the effects of economic collapse, corruption, and political instability.

Tourism has all but vanished. Foreign tourists, once the backbone of the industry, no longer visit. Daily power outages continue amid deteriorating sanitation and water infrastructure. Many hotels have shut down due to high fuel costs needed for generators and a low number of guests.

Despite lasting only a few weeks, the Al-Baldah season offers a much-needed economic boost to the city. It draws thousands of visitors from across Yemen, filling hotels, reviving local businesses, and bringing vendors from other towns to the coast to sell their goods and make the most of the crowds.

However, the influx of visitors has created its own challenges. Some complain there are not enough hotel rooms in Al-Mukalla, forcing them to rent private swimming pools, sleep in their cars, pitch tents, or spend the night on the streets.

Sultan Abdullah, who travelled from the central city of Marib with his wife and two children, said he spent the day searching for accommodation. When he eventually found one, it was overpriced and in poor condition.

“Hotels are full and overpriced,” he told The New Arab, watching his children swim in the sea.

He also criticised the condition of the beaches.

“Look! They’re filthy, covered in plastic bags and garbage,” he said, pointing to the sand littered with debris, food wrappers, bottles, and other waste.

Each morning, Sultan bathes in the sea with his family before returning to the hotel to rest, then heading back to the beach in the afternoon and visiting the few parks in the city.

“This is my fifth time visiting,” he said. “In the past, most people here were locals. Now, I see visitors from all over the country.”

Residents of the city also welcome these relatively cool days, which many describe as a “amana from the sky.”

For locals, it’s a brief escape from the burning heat and humidity — both on the street and inside their homes, where long power outages have made daily life more difficult.

Among the regulars who fully embrace the Al-Baldah season is Abdul Bari Al-Jawhari, a longtime resident of Al-Mukalla.

Carefully wading into the sea in his traditional attire, he swims for four hours each morning and often returns in the afternoon.

“My main swimming ritual is in the morning,” he said. “I stay in the sea from 5 am to 9 am. Bathing energises and relaxes my body. We come here mainly because of the power outages — God has blessed us with this natural relief from the heat.”

Economic challenges

With the large crowds flocking to Al-Mukalla, the season creates a rare economic opportunity for both local and visiting vendors.

Many residents, along with sellers from other cities, set up stalls or temporary tents along the beach and in public spaces. They offer everything from homemade food to traditional crafts, cold drinks, and souvenirs.

At one of the stalls, Atef Abdullah sits inside a traditional tent at an exhibition showcasing artefacts and products made by local families.

He is focused on engraving a wooden model of a traditional window, hoping it will catch the eye of a potential buyer.

Behind him, a long table displays miniature wooden buildings and heritage-inspired crafts he has made over the years, some priced at $50.

“I remind people of their past and help preserve their heritage,” he told The New Arab.

Despite the steady stream of visitors admiring his work, he said he had barely sold anything. 

“They just take my card and promise to contact me,” he explained. 

He notes that journalists also express admiration for his work and promise to help raise its profile, but like the visitors, they often leave without making a purchase.

Like many others, Atef complained about the shortage of accommodation in the city.

He said the hotel he was staying in was substandard, and that he sometimes had to make do with whatever food was available in the room, as restaurants were located far away.

In the same yard, food vendor Mona Omer displays her homemade dishes on a table. She offers a mix of Saudi and Indonesian cuisine, all prepared at home and stored in traditional thermal containers.

“After covering the cost of ingredients and transportation, I manage to make a little money from selling the food,” Mona said.

A mother of eight, she shares household expenses with her husband, who works as a bus driver. But long power cuts in Al-Mukalla have made her work more difficult, as unsold food often spoils without proper refrigeration, further reducing her already modest earnings.

Celebrations amid deteriorating services

In the evening, Al-Mukalla becomes even more vibrant. Thousands of visitors return from the beaches to local markets, while others stay along the coast into the night. Traffic jams continue late into the evening, and dense fog often blankets the coastal areas, at times reducing visibility.

As part of the season, local authorities also promote the Al-Baldah Festival, a two-week celebration featuring entertainment and recreational events. These include performances by Yemeni singers, family competitions, and a marathon.

However, the announcement of such festivities has triggered annual criticism from residents. Many argue that funds and efforts should instead be directed toward resolving urgent issues such as prolonged power cuts and deteriorating public services.

Responding to the criticism, Abeer Al-Hadrami, director of Hadramout’s provincial office of the Ministry of Culture — which oversees Al-Baldah cultural activities — said the ministry did not fund the events.

“All activities were organised and financed by local businesspeople,” she said. “The deterioration of public services doesn’t mean we shouldn’t celebrate when the opportunity arises — whether by going to the beach or organising artistic and heritage events."

“With the miserable conditions in the country, people need to entertain themselves, to laugh, and win a competition, and also listen to Yemeni and Arab music.”

Saeed Al-Batati is a freelance journalist based in Yemen's southern port city of Mukalla. He has contributed to Gulf News, Al Jazeera English, New York Times, The Guardian, and Foreign Policy