Pristine blue waters, white-sand beaches, thriving aquatic life swimming below overwater bungalows. It could be the Maldives or Mauritius — but it's the Island of Tahiti, a rising gem offering sun, sea and a rich, underexplored culture still flying under the radar of most Western and MENA travellers.
I recently travelled to Tahiti, the most oversized island in French Polynesia, an overseas French territory comprising more than 100 islands, known for its coral-fringed lagoons, rugged backcountry and cascading waterfalls.
As a female Muslim traveller who wears the hijab, I did have some apprehensions about the provisions available to travellers like myself, but instead I found that the islands were not only welcoming but woefully underexplored by other Muslim travellers.
To start my trip, I landed in Tahiti’s capital, Papeete, which has only 26,600 inhabitants yet boasts many high-end resorts, spas, fine dining, vibrant markets, museums, pearl shops, and boutiques.
I started my stay at The Intercontinental Hotel, a short drive away from the airport, where we were greeted with grass-skirt-clad dancers performing the traditional ʻōteʻa dance to welcome us onto the island.
While I didn’t spend too long at the hotel, I found its breakfast menu a morning delight, and even met other hijab-clad travellers who told me how enjoyable the destination was.
While I’ve travelled to many destinations that offered little in the way of halal-compliant food (the Philippines, South Korea, Colombia), Tahitian food was surprisingly accessible.
Their national dish, poisson cru – raw fish (like tuna) marinated in lime juice and coconut milk, often mixed with fresh vegetables – became a quick favourite and something I ate almost every day.
As a certified coconut lover, I also devoured the flaky coconut bread and discovered a new fruit to obsess over: breadfruit, offering a starchy, potato-like taste. Other classic island staples include pineapple, which Moorea is famous for.
[Faima Bakar]
Things to do in Moorea and Papeete
Interestingly, overwater bungalows – rooms built directly over water on concrete pylons – which the likes of Bora Bora and the Maldives are famous for, originated in Moorea and were inspired by traditional Tahitian fishing huts. So it’s worth a stay for history’s sake, but also for the exclusive marine life, as you can book whale-spotting excursions where you can swim with whales, which are only available in Tahiti and Moorea.
But timing is key, as certain cetaceans, such as Humpback whales, are only visible from July to November, after which they swim back to Antarctica. And September is Tahiti winter, but temperatures are pleasantly above 24°C.
You can get to Moorea from Papeete on a short ferry that departs several times throughout the day.
Given that these are islands, nautical activities are abundant and canoeing and paddling are national sports. So it’s definitely worth renting a Hōkūleʻa, a voyaging canoe, where you can sail into the ocean and learn about Tahitian fishing practices.
Like Muslims who follow the lunar calendar, locals also use the moon for fishing, as the cycle helps them know which types of fish to look for each night. The Museum of Tahiti & Islands, in Papeete, is also a great place to learn this history.
Things to do in Tikehau
If visiting the Islands of Tahiti, I advise moving around between the atolls, including the postcard-like Tikehau, offering a crown of white and pink sand around a lagoon of unreal bright blue.
The lagoon is teeming with more fish than any other island in the archipelago, and here you can book diving or snorkelling excursions where you can swim with manta rays, float past vibrant coral reefs and other breathtaking fish.
I recommend booking a full-day tour with Tikehau Ocean Tours, who will pick you up, take you to the best snorkelling spots and provide a private motu (uninhabited island) picnic lunch of poisson cru and freshly grilled fish.
There is a hotel and several Tahitian Guesthouses in Tikehau, where you can rent your own canoe or go for a dip with friendly blacktip sharks accustomed to human presence. This oval-shaped atoll is only 17 miles long, home to around 500 locals, and a 55-minute flight from Papeete in Tahiti.
Things to do in Rangiroa
From Tikehau, you can take the shortest plane journey (less than 30 minutes) to Rangiroa – a world-famous atoll known for its diving, with a diversity of marine life.
Rangiroa is also home to a flourishing pearl industry, and visitors are welcome to the pearl farms where they can learn some of the secrets of the stunning black gem produced by oysters. These also make great gifts to bring back home to loved ones.
Being the biggest atoll of Tahiti, Rangiroa has a good tourist capacity, and you can book many tours, including a Blue Lagoon tour with Kamiani Excursions, which will take you swimming and snorkelling along the best sites, including a deliciously fresh meal on a private motu where you can see sting rays float by your feet.
If you book the full-day trip, you can also see dolphins and whales swimming by. While there are hotels and guesthouses available, honeymooners or bougie travellers can also book a stay on Motu Fara Private Island, which is precisely what it sounds like – a private paradise island covering 16,000 m², featuring two villas with private pools.
The privacy of this villa was excellent for me, especially as I had a pool to myself from my bedroom, meaning I could go hijabless.
Things to do in Teahupo’o
At the 2024 Paris Olympics, Kauli Vaast, a local Tahitian surfer, won gold at his home break, Teahupo'o, which is unsurprisingly a world-famous surf spot renowned for its powerful left-breaking waves.
With a surf competition held here each year in August, Teahupo'o is also known for its beaches and river, making it ideal for even the non-surfing enthusiasts among us.
You can book a trip with Tahiti Surfing & Boat Excursion, which includes a visit to the Paraha Peue fish farm, the Vaipoiri cave, where you can jump in, a stop at the Hava'e Pass, where you can admire The Wave of Teahupo'o. There are also shallow sandbanks where you can chill and soak in the sun.
How to get to Tahiti
Given the distance, there are no direct flights from the UK. If you fly Air Tahiti Nui (the national carrier), you can expect to pay around £1,890 for a return trip (flying via L.A), depending on the time booked, which includes on-board meals and luggage allowance.
Faima Bakar is a freelance journalist writing about race, religion and feminism
Follow her on Instagram: @FaimaBakar