As Palestine's pioneering female brewmaster, Madees Khoury is taking Taybeh's spirit to global aisles

It's hard to think of beer without picturing the clink of pint glasses and crowds of sweaty, flushed-faced, macho men in Victorian and Edwardian pubs.

Yet, in a world long dominated by men, where drinking and brewing beer have been assumed to be male activities, the first person ever referenced in connection with the much-loved beverage was, in fact, a woman.

In ancient Mesopotamia, for example, Ninkasi — known as ‘the woman who fills the mouth’ — is remembered as the Sumerian goddess of brewing. The earliest written record of beer, The Hymn to Ninkasi, not only praises her but also includes a recipe for brewing beer from barley bread and outlines the techniques used.

Remarkably, in a heavily patriarchal society, brewing was one of the few professions where women could call on goddesses for protection and guidance. This allowed them to make beer and even run their own taverns, despite the limited opportunities available for women to earn a living.

In ancient Egypt, a similar story unfolded, with brewing considered part of everyday domestic life and done mainly by women, as seen in carvings and temple art depicting them grinding grain, stirring pots, and pouring beer.

The process was also linked to the divine. Hathor, the goddess of music, love, and joy, was celebrated as the ‘inventress of brewing’ and honoured each year with a festival that celebrated her creativity and drunkenness.

Across the ocean, in South America, the same theme played out. Chicha, a fermented corn beer, was central to life and culture. According to archaeologist Patrick McGovern in Uncorking the Past, during the Incan Empire (1400–1533 CE), chicha was used as payment, shared at feasts, and played a key role in religious ceremonies. Once again, it was women — often from elite families — who oversaw the brewing process.

While the list goes on, it’s clear that brewing across civilisations wasn’t just about labour. It was a ritual, a craft, and a community tradition — a practice led, mastered, and celebrated by women.

Fast forward to today, and that legacy still lives on, even in places where it might seem unexpected.

In the Middle East, for instance, Madees Khoury — the eldest daughter of Taybeh Brewery co-founder Nadim Khoury — is breaking barriers as the region’s only female brewmaster.

Not only is she rewriting the rules in a field long dominated by men and challenging social expectations that women should prioritise marriage and domestic life, but she is also overseeing production, driving innovation, and expanding her family’s business empire.

Speaking to The New Arab from the hilly, olive grove-rich village of Taybeh in the occupied West Bank, Palestine, Madees reflects on the brewery’s evolution — from its beginnings to the thriving business it is today.

From Boston dreams to Palestinian brews

"To go way back to the '70s and '80s, my father and uncle went to the States for college, and that's where my dad picked up home brewing. He used to brew in the dorms," Madees begins.

"Every summer, he'd come back to Taybeh with my uncle to keep their Palestinian ID numbers active. He’d bring his brewing kit, make beer with his friends, and drink it with the family — just for fun. Then he continued his studies at UC Davis in California and became a master brewer.

"He and my uncle had actually considered opening a brewery in Boston in the early '90s, but then the Oslo Accords happened. Supposedly, peace and a hopeful future for Palestinians," she shares with The New Arab.

"During this time, my grandfather wanted his two sons to come back to the country, for us kids to learn the language and culture, and to be closer to the family. So he suggested, 'Why not open a brewery in Palestine? We don’t have one.' They challenged him: if he could get the permits and licenses to open a brewery, they would return; if not, they would stay where they were.

"Right away, my grandfather bought the land, built the building, got the permits and licenses, received Yasser Arafat’s blessing, and told them, 'Yallah!'”

Taybeh Brewery, the first microbrewery in the Middle East

Co-founder Nadim Khoury

Madees Khoury is the first female brewmaster in the Middle East

Taybeh Brewing Co was founded in the West Bank in 1994

Besides beer, wine is also a key part of the operation, with a focus on producing wines from both local and indigenous varieties

Now, after 31 years as the Middle East’s first microbrewery, Madees notes that Taybeh has introduced a range of beers for the local market, from experimental flavours like Za’atar, Sumac, Arabic coffee, hot chilli peppers, Dead Sea salt, prickly pear, and berries, to their iconic IPAs, which her brother worked on perfecting.

"Palestinians love sweet things. We’ll put four tablespoons of sugar in a small cup of tea," Madees laughs.

"So, to introduce a bitter beer, my brother focused on the aroma — giving it a tropical, citrusy scent with a smooth bitterness at the end."

Beyond brewing, Taybeh Brewery has also hosted Taybeh Oktoberfest since 2005, attracting thousands each year for the beer, music, atmosphere, and the strong sense of community it creates.

Madees explains, "The festival brings everyone together — local women's groups selling homemade goods, local restaurants serving food, the Boy Scouts participating — and people come to enjoy themselves, whether they drink or not, speak Arabic or not, or have different political views. We’re hopeful it will return when Palestine is more peaceful."

Against all odds (and checkpoints)

Madees confesses that operating a brewery in Palestine comes with its challenges.

"We're living under Israeli occupation, and as long as that's the case, everything is controlled by the Israelis. Whether it's travelling from one Palestinian town to another, you can run into surprise checkpoints, roadblocks, or even be completely stopped from passing through," she says, explaining the reality in stark terms.

"At the start of this year, they installed over 1,200 gates across every Palestinian city, town, and village. Whenever they want, they can simply close the roads, and we’re trapped. We can’t move freely. So, in a way, we’re living in a prison.”

Madees also highlights the brewery’s water supply, drawn from a spring serving 14 towns and villages, which is under constant threat.

"Since July, we've been facing daily settler attacks without pause. The Israeli settlers have damaged our pipelines, broken the system, and destroyed the cameras. Now they have a post at the spring, and they're blocking the Palestinian water company from going in to make repairs," she tells The New Arab. 

For Madees, crossing borders adds even more hurdles, as she explains, “Since last month, the commercial checkpoint to Jordan has been closed, and even when I returned from my travels, I got stuck — we were like sheep, crushed at the entrance, treated horribly in an unorganised and unmanaged way.”

"Things aren’t improving — they’re getting worse. But Palestinians still hold onto hope. Every time something happens, we adapt to living under occupation, and eventually, it just becomes the new normal. But it’s not normal.”

Reflecting on these challenges, Madees notes the huge logistical complications they create for the brewery and its exports.

"We're constantly adjusting our brewing schedule based on when the water comes from the spring," she explains.

"For my drivers, the trips to Ramallah or Jerusalem are becoming increasingly long, time-consuming, and exhausting. The checkpoint we use is 30 to 40 minutes away, and sometimes they close early for no reason, leaving the drivers waiting for hours."

She adds, "On the map, it’s supposed to be an hour and a half drive to Haifa port. But in reality, it can take up to three days — if everything goes smoothly. First, there’s a security check to enter Israel, then another one at the port. Recently, they’ve started doing manual checks, charging us double the fees. All of this, just because we’re Palestinian."

Yet despite all the hardships, Madees stresses that her family’s business has no choice but to endure.

"My dad always says we could write a whole book about all the challenges of doing business here. And yet, we keep investing. We keep planning. We have Plan A, Plan B, Plan C, and Plan D.

"Things aren’t improving — they’re getting worse. But Palestinians still hold onto hope. Every time something happens, we adapt to living under occupation, and eventually, it just becomes the new normal. But it’s not normal.”

Legacy on tap 

Looking ahead, Taybeh Brewery has big plans to grow.

Today, its beers and wines are available in 17 countries, and earlier this year, Taybeh made its UK debut with Brewgooder, launching the Sun and Stone beer.

Named after the sun and limestone that define the Palestinian landscape, the beer is brewed in the UK with British malt, German hops, and local water, staying true to the iconic Palestinian recipe, and features a design by Lebanese illustrator Nourie Flayhan, with mosaic-style motifs and colours inspired by the region.

Brewgooder x Taybeh Brewery Sun and Stone Lager

Brewgooder x Taybeh Brewery Sun and Stone Lager

Brewgooder x Taybeh Brewery Sun and Stone Lager

Brewgooder x Taybeh Brewery Sun and Stone Lager

Although Sun and Stone is now available in 1,600 Co-op shops across the UK and online — marking a significant milestone for Taybeh on the international stage — for Madees, the brewery is about more than just beer; it’s about legacy.

As she puts it, "Even now, my niece, Sama, comes to the brewery every morning. She watches her dad work, checks out the machines, and smiles playfully with the employees. It’s a first step in slowly getting her involved. I just hope that, if she chooses to take over the family business, it’ll be much easier for her to get started and run things in 25 years."

Zainab Mehdi is The New Arab's Associate Editor and researcher specialising in governance, development, and conflict in the Middle East and North Africa region 

Follow her on Instagram: @zaiamehdi_/@zainabmehdiwrites_