From Gaza to Taybeh, why Palestine's timeless winemaking legacy needs to be revisited

As far as the records of history go, the first production of fermented and alcoholic drinks is believed to have originated in Mesopotamia, where the Sumerians brewed beer around 6000 BC in what is now modern-day Iraq.

Others suggest that Egypt may have also been an early centre of production. The ancient Greek geographer, philosopher, and historian Strabo noted that “barley beer is a preparation peculiar to the Egyptians; it is common to many tribes, but the mode of preparing it differs in each.”

However, recent discoveries have challenged these assumptions.

In 2018, evidence of such production was reported at a late Natufian archaeological site in the Raqefet Cave, located in Wadi Al-Maghaier on Mount Mar Elias near Haifa — a Palestinian city occupied by Israel in 1948.

According to Palestinian artist Nasser Soumi, author of Wine and Palestine: A Millennial History, the beverage was a type of beer brewed from wild grains, dating back over 13,700 years — long before humans began farming plants and animals, during a time when they still lived as hunter-gatherers.

This discovery is particularly significant given the long history of colonial powers weaponising food and beverages to create false national identities of their own and erase the existence of others.

In Israel’s case, this has included appropriating traditional Middle Eastern dishes such as hummus, baba ghanoush, falafel, and shawarma, as well as indigenous Palestinian alcohol production.

In an effort to ensure history is neither misinterpreted nor rewritten, The New Arab revisited the rich legacy of Palestinian beverages – notably winemaking – in collaboration with Nabeeth Wines, a UK-based importer and distributor of Palestinian wines.

Nabeeth, whose name means 'wine' in Arabic, was founded by a group of entrepreneurs, including sommelier Anna Patrowicz and renowned chef Fadi Kattan.

It was established to celebrate the long-standing tradition of Palestinian winemaking and to support its preservation by importing wines from boutique and monastery wineries across Palestine.

Here is what they had to say from Fadi’s London restaurant Akub:

'You make wine in Palestine?'

“Today, when Anna or I talk about Palestinian wines, people are often surprised and ask, 'Oh, do you make wine in Palestine?' And the answer is yes – we invented winemaking, and it has been an ongoing reality. This is true both personally, as many Palestinian homes still make wine at home, and commercially," Fadi begins.

“Additionally, there has been a historic link to the church; even today, a few monasteries continue to produce wine. So, it is a long, rich history of winemaking that has somehow been forgotten.”

Speaking in more detail about the origins of winemaking in Palestine, Fadi explains that the Natufians were the first to plant grapes around 9500 BC in Jericho, and that from the first century onwards, the most famous wine in the Mediterranean was ‘Gaza wine’ (vinum Gazentum in Latin), traditionally stored in long, thin ceramic jars ideal for transport by camel and boat.

As stated on the Nabeeth Wines website, during the Roman era up to the 6th century AD, Gaza wine was sold to Britain, France, Germany, and Yemen, with its high quality making the beverage a sought-after luxury product intended for wealthy urban centres such as Constantinople, Alexandria, and Ravenna.

As Fadi explains, 'Gaza wine' is no longer produced, not because of Israel's ongoing genocide in the Strip, but due to destructive flooding in the area and the outbreak of the Justinian plague in AD 541, which likely reduced demand for luxury goods throughout the region and diminished the supply of farmworkers.

Tasting the terroir

At present, Nabeeth Wines partners with six producers — Ashkar Winery, Cremisan Winery, Jascala Winery, Muaddi Distillery, Taybeh Winery and Taybeh Brewery — all of whom share a strong commitment to honouring the Palestinian terroir and its history, as well as a passion for creating exceptional wines.

And while many today praise Mediterranean wines from Italy, Greece, and Spain — not to say those wines aren’t delicious — Anna believes what truly sets Palestinian wine apart from others in the region is, first and foremost, its history: the longest continuous tradition of winemaking in the area, along with records of a uniquely diverse terroir.

“Because the terrain is uneven and the soils are varied, there are many microclimates at different altitudes, which influence how the grapes grow and ripen,” Anna explains.

She continues, "And if you add to that the mix of international grape varieties that were planted in the region, then, after phylloxera, were sort of replanted, along with the indigenous grape varieties, it creates a very attractive and interestingly different picture."

Anna highlights that the native grape varieties now used commercially include predominantly white varieties — Zeini, Dabouki, Hamdani and Jandali — and red varieties such as Bittuni and Baladi, with both types producing red wines and rosés, and each variety having a distinctive profile.

Looking beyond the history and terroir, Anna stresses that it is the winemaker’s personal touch that makes Palestinian wine so special and sets it apart from others.

“For example, wines from Upper Galilee tend to be unapologetically bold and generous, with interesting textures, especially in the reds, and tannin structures that, for me, set those wines apart.

"To give an example of wines from the Upper Galilee, this would include Ashkar wines, which are known for their elegance. As for Taybeh wines, they are always very precise, with clearly marked minerality and well-defined profiles," says Anna.

"Then, Cremisan wines focus on native grape varieties and have a ‘native grape series', where they successfully produce commercially available wines showcasing the unique profiles of each grape variety.”

Overcoming challenges

Like with any business, there will always be challenges — and in the context of Israel’s occupation of Palestine, the future looks particularly concerning for Nabeeth Wines’ producers.

Madees Khoury — hailed as Palestine’s first and only brewmaster, and part of the family-run Taybeh Brewery — shared her concerns with The New Arab about the controversial E1 West Bank settlement project, which was signed off by Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu on 11 September and includes 3,400 new homes for Israeli settlers, cutting off much of the West Bank from occupied East Jerusalem.

While Israel’s far-right Finance Minister, Bezalel Smotrich, has described the move as a way to “bury the idea of a Palestinian state”, for Madees, it is “just another form of dehumanisation” for the people of Palestine.

“I don’t know what’s going to happen,” says Madees.

“I can’t visualise how I’m going to be able to visit my customers in Bethlehem. You know, you have families who are married between Bethlehem and Ramallah and from all over… It’s just frightening what’s happening, because the situation in Palestine keeps getting worse and worse,” she tells The New Arab. 

“But, you know, as Palestinians, we still have hope — that we’re going to have an independent state, and, you know, a hopeful future,” she continues.

“And I don’t know if it’s delusional to hold on to hope, but it’s all we’ve got right now — and Israelis can’t take that away from us.”

That being said, on 9 September, it was reported that Taybeh had reached British store shelves — with the support of Scottish brewer and social enterprise Brewgooder — showing what’s possible when hope persists through struggle and hardship.

“My grandfather used to say, if you can make it succeed and happen in Palestine, you can succeed anywhere else in the world,” Madees explained in an interview with the Associated Press.

Pairings not to miss

Keen to experience the rich taste of Palestinian wines?

Wine connoisseurs or the simply curious can order through the Nabeeth website, or, for those in London, enjoy a selection at Fadi’s Akub restaurant in Notting Hill.

To guide diners through the menu, Anna recommends several pairings between Akub’s dishes and wines:

Small plates

Mafghoussa — made with courgettes, garlic yoghurt, pine nuts, and mint — pairs perfectly with the Jascala Winery Sauvignon Blanc.

Large plates

Bukjet Mousakhan, a bread parcel filled with chicken, onion, and sumac, pairs well with the Baladi, a native grape red wine from Cremisan Winery, while Short Rib Fatteh, slow-cooked beef with garlic yoghurt and pomegranate focaccia, complements a Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon from Ashkar Wineries.

Dessert

The Madees Late Harvest from Taybeh Winery, a sweet wine, pairs beautifully with Akub’s iconic Dead Sea Chocolate Cake.

Zainab Mehdi is The New Arab's Associate Editor and researcher specialising in governance, development, and conflict in the Middle East and North Africa region 

Follow her on Instagram: @zaiamehdi_/@zainabmehdiwrites_